Thermador RES30RS 30" Dual-Fuel range Timer

What is the timer/clock part number for the Thermador RES30RS 30" Dual-Fuel range?

Timer part number AP2836528 for Thermador RES30RS

The RES30RS 30" Dual-Fuel range uses timer part number AP2836528.

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We can repair or replace your faulty Thermador RES30RS timer.

RES30RS are also sometimes referred to using these Alternative Names/Model numbers

Bosch RES30RS 30" Dual-Fuel range, RES30RS(PRIOR-9707), RES30RS (9707 & UP)

RES30RS Schematic and Wiring Diagrams

THERMADOR 30 diagram
RES30RS 30

Recent Service Requests

CityManufacturerModel NumberPart NumberFailure CodeProblem DescriptionResolution
LaSalle, QuébecThermadorRES30RS486752N/AAwaiting receipt of timer

Common problems for Thermador RES30RS 30" Dual-Fuel range Timer

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Our electric thermador oven 30RS will not self clean. It runs for a minute, then a beep comes and then it stops. The oven is in room temperature.
Gentlemen, I have a 3-year old Samsung RS2630SH that has some ice buildup in the freezer part, but at least freezer side is cooling. Refridgirator side is warm, and no air is coming out of the vents. If I defrost it completely, it will work for few days and then stop cooling in the fridge compartment. I did some reasearch and it appears that there are many things that can cause this, I'm wondering if anyone has any pointers on where to start? According to few searches here and on the 'Net in general, this could be anything from defective defrost clock or termister to complete main board failure. I figured I'd start with something simple like defrost clock diagnostic per Gene's sticky, but I guess I'm too stupid: I can't seem to locate the defrost clock to complete the first step. I dowloaded disassebly manual as well, but it didn't have any information reagarding defrost clock in it. Any pointers or suggestions? Many
I have a Samsung RS2534ww Side by Side refrigerator that is about 5 years old, the fan was making a loud noise, so I took the inside cover off of the refrigerator side and the coils were basically a solid sheet of ice. This happened a couple weeks ago and I unplugged the unit and did a complete defrost for about 2 days, powered on and reset the unit. A few days later the coils froze up again. The fan seems to be running a little loud and when you open the fridge door the fan shuts off, I believe the fan should keep running while the door is open, correct? Anyone have any ideas on what I can do to troubleshoot this, I spoke with the Samsung tech team and they were worthless.
My dryer is having a odd issue, the dryer works sometimes, but other times it will stop partway through a cycle, or not start at all. When it does not start, holding the clock clockwise, with not enough force to actually turn it, will cause the dryer to run, and sometimes stay running, other times it will stop as soon as I stop holding the clock. If the end of cycle buzzer is on, it will alarm as soon as the dryer stops, no matter where in the cycle it is. It seems to me that the clock is the issue, but when I called the local parts store, they told me the clock is very rarely the issue. I am grateful for any advice.
How do I locate the freezer side glass heater elements? Do I remove the panel(s) inside the freezer compartment? The fan will get ice built up on the blades every 4-5 months and I have been removing the freezer panel and defrosting with a hairdryer. I have not seen the ooven glow or heard the burning sound of the defroster in a long time so i am guessing the glass heater element is shot.
Hello all. Yesterday, the washing machine filled with water just fine (was doing a full load so it filled pretty much to the top). I noticed the clock seemed to be "buzzing" a little more loudly than usual. Once the washing machine was filled with water the cycle didn't advance (as in, no agitation, etc.) I tried unplugging the washer and gave it a few minutes but nothing happened. A couple of times the clock has sounded like it started again, but only for a minute or two (buzzing, clicking, etc.) I noticed yesterday that I could faintly smell a little bit of burnt electrical smell - but today that smell is absent. Right now the washer is completely full of water, it won't agitate, spin, and advancing the clock to get it to drain isn't working either. I pulled out the clock to visually inspect it and it seems fine, but I can really only see the electrical contacts. Anywho, please let me know if I can provide any additional information. Brandon Maytag Performa Model PAVT910AWW
I have a Maytag dryer MDE8400AYW. The dryer worked fine, but then would not start (when I would pull the starter knob out) due to a bad clock. So, I went to a local appliance parts store and bought a new clock apparently that would work with this model. After inserting the new clock, the dryer started just fine again, but now the dryer does not stop...i.e., the clock does not advance at all, the unit just runs and runs and runs. This happens no matter if the unit is sensing the wetness of the clothes (the IntelliDry sensor does not advance from wet to damp to dry) or when I just use a timed drying cycle (e.g., set it for 10 minutes...it never advances at all). Thus, we must manually check when our clothes are dry or they will be toast. When I bought the new clock locally, the store's computer told them that I apparently also needed a whole new wiring harness for the new clock to work. I can't rewire the entire dryer! The original clock that we replaced did not have this problem, i.e.,
I have a Samsung RS2556SH refrigerator that needs a new defrost heater on the refrigerator side. Does anyone know if I can buy JUST the defrost heater, or do I need to replace the entire evaporator?

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